Dubai is exceptionally good at luxury. Spectacular hotels, impossibly high buildings, restaurants designed to impress, and enough marble to make an Italian quarry nervous. What the city doesn't always do quite as convincingly is tranquility. There is usually something happening, something opening, or something competing for your attention. Which is precisely why my stay at One&Only Royal Mirage felt so extraordinary. The resort occupies one of Dubai's most desirable beachfron

A year ago, fashion was practically vibrating with anticipation. Creative directors were changing houses at a pace usually reserved for celebrity relationships, and every appointment promised a bold new chapter. Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Versace. The industry's biggest names were getting new creative identities, and the collective excitement was enormous. We were promised reinvention, renewed relevance, and enough fresh perspectives to keep fashion interesting for year

Two beautiful hotels, an unreasonable amount of pasta, a little luxury shopping and a city that made absolutely no effort to be subtle. I fell completely in love. There are cities you visit, cities you admire, and cities that make you start entertaining completely impractical ideas about relocating before you've even unpacked your suitcase. I arrived expecting the usual extraordinary architecture, excellent food and a few days of indulging my considerable weakness for fashion